Forging a SWORD out of Rusted Iron REBAR 

I can't believe it took you 2 days just to forge the thing. Nevertheless, it came out nice and shiny👍🗡️!

Armature cannot be hardened. Because hardenable reinforcement cannot be welded. Who needs fragile places in rebar? Hello from Russia p.s Try to make it from a spring, torsion bar or a powerful spring (for example, from a railway carriage). Just do not forget to release after hardening - it can burst)))

In theory, the pommel balances the blade. Therefore, it should not be made of light metal)))

Pastor please pray for the release of curses and magic. Please pray to facilitate the brain and be given intelligence. Please pray to get rid of the disease in the body. Please pray for smooth finances and be given wealth.

Hmm the handle is round. That is a problem. It makes difficult to keep the blade aligned with the direction of the cut.

Wdym he used a buzz saw

@@Donglehutone tool

​@@Donglehuta single modern tool doesn't equate to a fancy workshop.

Well this guy did a great job at making a medium quality sword even tho he's not a blacksmith or a a wordsmith. But the fact that he's not knowledgeable about medieval weapons or just forging in general shows. I'm a blacksmith, i've made a few swords now, and he could tweak a thing or two. First of all, he shouldn't cover his steel with a layer of clay to "prevent carbon loss". This is irrelevant, we don't carry weighted vests in every day life to not get sucked up by tornadoes. Carbon loss can happen, except that's irrelevant in that case and the technique used is kinda dumb. He didn't temper his sword prior to quenching, wich is a mistake. He should have done a few cycles during the final steps of the forging, by hammering while at a low recristalisation temperature (but i mean he's not that great of a Smith so he just carved the shape out instead, wich would be a nonsense in a medieval setup, just beacause stock removal is so expensive compared to just forging the blade at the right shape directly). Then, the clay... At a quenching temperature, you're nowhere near the heat necessary to modify noticeably the carbon content of your edge, wich means... He put clay for nothing (and even then, keep in mind that decarburization can take hours at high temperatures, so basically you'd have to do it on purpose to lose carbon). Then, he quenched the blade... With the clay still on??? And too cold??? So basically the clay prevents the steel from properly hardening, that's why we'd use it foe making hamons, and the heat seemed way too low to even have quenched if it didn't have clay. So in short, the guy pretended to make a tempered blade when he just didn't temper his blade at all, he just did some shenanigans to pretend like he's changing the steel. But whatever, a sword doesn't HAVE to be hardened, in a medieval context it wouldn't be uncommon to see untempered weapons. Then, about the tempering, i don't exactly understand why he put the blade in a box and then put sand on top of it... Does he want to grow a sword tree? I suppose he saw a blacksmith put a hot blade in vermiculite once and thought he could do the same with sand, except his blade isn't hot, the sand isn't vermiculite, and, minor detail, you usually do that step to CANCEL HARDENING. (btw vermiculite is used to keep the heat in the blade, sand would just suck up the heat, but that doesn't matter on a cold blade). And, well, the handle is round, wich makes it very hard to feel the edge alignment. That just shows he doesn't use handled tools or weapons in general a whole lot, or at least didn't pay attention about why axe handles weren't round for exemple... Overall not a bad attempt at all for a beginner, just a lack of informations on a lot of aspects, be it forging or weaponry, but that's kind of a problem when you want to forge a weapon. If he studied the subject a bit more he'd have done a quite good job a making a sword tho! (oh and i have yet to feel the balancing of the blade tho) Last side note : he shouldn't have faked the cut maille at the end... Like he strikes it, and cuts to a photo of the cut maille... First of all even a good sword would have been stopped by that, just beacause you don't cut steel with steel that easily. Then, i'm pretty sure it's the maille that cut into the sword lmao, he probablement got a nice saw blade where the sword hit

@@jeanladoire4141 thanks for pointing this out! The tempering part bothered me bit in the video(, too).

@@jeanladoire4141 6:16 if he didn't temper it, what's that?

@@RLee-we1fc that's planting a sword for making a sword tree (what he did is pointless, the sword isn't tempered, and in no case should you bury it in sand)

@@jeanladoire4141 that's funny, a sword tree. 😂 😂

It makes it a living rpg? How?

I'm boutta break into his back yard

Swords weren't invented in RPGs 🤦

i do not remember making this comment lol

I was looking for this comment, there's always this comment

Anzar

@@isaacgarcia117 ²1йййй33111ф3кк0

U should make a video of ur own. ( making a sword

I've been hammering out knives for more than 20 years - regular rebar is soft, usually a mixture of lesser steels, it generally won't temper, will not hold an edge and rusts at the drop of a hat. This gentleman did a fantastic job hammering out a sword blade, beautiful work! Doing it the hard way too 👍 f yeah. Much better than i could do!!! That high polish is downright snazzy. 👌 ( If you want a real beast, forge one out of one of those coil springs! Talk about tough(!), some of my favorite blade steel but it is hard stuff. It holds a great edge, will take a good bend and spring right back but hammering out a sword will take a lot longer - when you start hammering it just looks at you, it moves slow until you flatten it out some, but man it makes a rugged, sharp blade!

Yes you had to use a sledge as you didn't use the power of the video jump cut. With jump cuts you can achieve perfect thickness with a small hammer and crowned rail track, with jump cuts you can hollow grind the blade and apply a scalloped grind patina to the tang covering up the very much perfect face finish, you achieve after 2 days tapping on the rail anvil. My fakedar was ringing loud from the opening scene and got so loud I had to stop watching in honor of those blacksmiths that present nose to tail videos without massive progress jump cuts.

Also a hell of a lot of smelting and metalworking expertise + still a lot of tools.

@@faselfasel2864 Agreed

It's not a matter of grip. The reason a swords handle is oblong shaped is so you get more effectively align the blade with your cut. A round handle offers no tactile feedback on where the blade edge is facing.

@@FinalFantasyIXIIII I know, I worded that poorly. What I meant was that good grip helps with controlling the spinning, so you'll have atleast a chance of having the blade somewhat aligned.

The opposite, if you start forging don't do what this guy does lmao

@@shaqjuice420 yeep shaping and tempering would make this sword break pretty easily+ its rebar

Imagina os do ferreiros da idade média

Yeah couldnt help thinking that he should have drilled holes in that rail bit and bolted it down to something that didnt move

Rebar is actually soft, you can see how fast its moving.

🤩✌🏻Good Work, My Young Man!🤩✌🏻 🤩✌🏻Try To Make One Of These Too For You To Play With!🤩✌🏻

beqkafnst,sla

you forgot the power of the video jump cut.

@@mrrberger were you actually going to watch 2 days worth of shaping the rebar?? hahahahahahaha

There are many types of rebar, maybe this one is an alloyed one. Either way, he just showed us that we don't need a lot of things to create something beautiful. Hehe

He didnt harden in, its mild steel. He just went through the processes of forging a high-carbon steel sword, with mild steel.

rebar is probably a good analogue for medieval steel, as alot of blades made in the day had massively inconsistent hardness across them.

@@conorhudson1486 That can be true depending on the area and time period, but anything in Europe past the 13th century was likely to be more on the *too hard* side than not hard enough. Rebar simply does not have enough carbon to get very hard. Besides, we have easy and cheap access to far superior materials. Good blade-quality steel can be under $20 for several feet of bar, and even if you want to go the free route you can find springs and old saw blades and worn out files.

@@tybertimus I usually use leaf springs

​@@conorhudson1486 false, the medieval steel was a bloom or bloomery steel, all the contemporany steel come from an a insdustrial process and is a form of molten and liquid steel. so we have different propieties: decarbuzation, low templability, etc. The steel has used in the video is a low carbon steel, you cant hardening this material, ussualy the medieval steel use a medium or high carbon steel for the cuting adge and iron or low carbon steel for the general corp. We have different cualities of steels in different moments of this period, but exist many blades that we know has made whit a very high culitie steel.

If you quenche the rebar in oil it becomes real good and it wont take any warps or crack

@@geniceka Tempering will make the blade stronger but a tool steel will be harder than mild after both have been quenched.

@@alexglaras5090 if it's only mild steel with low carbon then it cannot be hard after quenching

@@geniceka Never knew that! Thanks!

Different grades of rebar, sort of a hot dog metal lol. I have a few pieces that will harden, but most is mild steel

Great results for a wall hanger yeah. Rebar is an absolutely atrocious material for a blade.

@@dustinstiner3057 ok? It's not like he's going to be taking it into battle🤓🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Aesthetic purposes sword only.

Hard wood will work, you just need a source of blowing air. The easiest method when using coal or hard wood is to grab a hairdryer and attach a 3-4' black iron pipe to it so the hairdryer can stay out of the heat. The pipe can lay next to the fire and blow. Only have the hairdryer on when you've got steel in the forge or you'll go through your wood pretty fast. You'd be amazed how hot a coal/hard wood fire can get with some moving air, you could burn the steel in no time. Blacksmiths that use forges like this on the regular use electric or hand cranked blowers instead of a hairdryer, but it'll do the same work for ya.

@ieatcaribou7852 Hey, thanks for the advice, I'm going to try that. Thanks!